14g copper on the left 18g aluminum on the right

double double pattern on the top, Inca Puno pattern on the bottom

The type of chain you make is basically dependent on two features the thickness of the wire, and the size of the thing you wrap it around (mandrel). If your wire is too thick, or your mandrel too small you wouldn’t be able to do a complicated pattern (like the aluminum chain above), similarly if your wire is too thin, or mandrel too big your chain will be all floppy and not look good.

There are many ways to make chains, from the simple, to the complex. Once you have made enough jump rings (see part one), you can experiment and find some styles you like.

Every chain made in this way follows a basic procedure.

1. Grab jump ring
2. Thread jump ring
3. Close jump ring
4. Repeat

This can be a tedious project, but the results are often amazing.

When you are closing the jump rings, be sure to use two sets of pliers, doing it with your fingers will lead to sub-standard results, and over time will destroy them (seriously this hurts).

Grab both sides of the jump ring, and move the two ends gently towards the gap, sort of wiggling them back and forth while pushing them together, when you are get it just right it looks like a ring.

You can do simple patterns such as two rings then two rings then two rings, or you can do fancier stuff like the following.

I will be making this chain from scratch as it were, so I am going to need some jump rings.  Jump rings are the individual components of the chain.  To make them you will need some wire, a mandrel (more about this in a bit) a jewelers saw, and some chain nose pliers.

First you will need some wire, I have chosen 16 gauge copper wire, mostly because I had it lying around, and also because copper is a beautiful metal that shines with a deep warmth.

Once you have your tools ready we can begin. To make the jump rings we first need to make the coil. I like to hand wrap my coils but you can do this with an electric drill. I find hand wrapping makes it easier to fix mistakes before they happen.

Wrap your wire around the mandrel. The mandrel will determine the size of the jump rings, use something that is metal and the same diameter the whole way down. I am using a Phillips head screw driver, but aluminum knitting needles work well also. Avoid wooden dowels as they vary in diameter.

You want a tight wrap with no gaps. Leaving a little tail will allow you to have something to grab on to as you twist.

When you get to the ends use your pliers to smooth down the last little bit.

Next you will need to cut your rings out. I use a jewelers saw.

I find holding the screw driver inside the coil helps stabilize it for the first couple of rings.

It is really easy to break blades when making jump rings so be sure to cut straight down, use the small overlap of the previous ring to help you line up your saw for the next one. Cut straight back towards the coil.

As you cut your jump rings will often fall down onto your saw, this is fine, I often let a couple of them collect before I remove them. They also like to jump all over the place, putting a towel on your lap will help catch them.

After I have cut a whole bunch of them I like to go through and gently open each jump ring, this just makes it easier to work with them as you will have them all ready to go.

If you have any little burs on the rings you can take them off with a needle file. Once you have a good collection of jump rings you are ready to make some chain.

Keep reading part two